BEST OF BERLIN FASHION WEEK F/W 2024
with words by Simon Riepe
RICHERT BEIL - After last season’s triumphant comeback to BFW, Jale Richert and Michele Beil celebrate their 10th anniversary as tradition demands: with cake, flowers and german Schlager like „Ganz in Weiß“ by Roy Black. The „Heritage“ Collection is an upgrade of their grandmothers’ wardrobes. Mixing their personal style, family heirlooms and all eras they have lived through with unconventional materials like latex and recycled lace or leather from horse gear and saddles. This results in a collection of authentic and wearable garments refining the often underestimated German style.
SIA ARNIKA - If Berlin is one thing, it’s multicultural. No wonder that many local designers have their roots outside of Germany. Sia didn’t travel far though. The designer of danish origin founded her brand with the same name in the city of her choice, yet her inspirations still reflect her journey. For her F/W 2024 collection she created a fictional persona, sensual with a captivating darkness. Based on Asta Nielsen, a danish silent filmstar who grew up very poor and has risen to fame in 1910 Berlin - Sia feels a parallel in their stories. And taking on Asta Nielsen’s adrogynous side, menswear looks come fluent in a womenswear dominated collection. Soft, flowing fabrics contrasting with stiff, technical textiles and laser cuts. Their silhouettes range between traditional menswear and experimental nods to Berlin’s golden age of womenswear.
SF1OG - The creative director Rosa Rahl takes us to the Ernst-Reuter-Gymnasium to teach us a lesson in nostalgia with her F/W 2024 collection for SF1OG. Between school chairs and chalk boards we experience a flashback to where we all started. Old issues of Bravo, bike helmets, paper hats and backpacks in collaboration with Eastpak. SF1OG is known for its storytelling, but also for the unwavering commitment to materials and artisanal craftsmanship. Recycled leather and repurposed linen from the 18th and 19th century clash with a new playfulness through pleated skirts, ties and unevenly striped shirts. The multicultural cast of all age groups sits down for a lesson in 2000s songs like „Teenage Dirtbag“ in the school gym and for a moment we all reconnect with our inner child.
NAMILIA - They might have the biggest fan crowd gathering throughout BFW, but this hype has a fundamental core. „Pfoten weg!“ (Hands off!) is the title of Emilia Pfohl’s and Nan Li’s F/W 2024 collection. It encourages individuals to embrace their truth unapologetically, reclaiming their bodies and identities - a principle to experience for which many move to Berlin in the first place. And ultimately get in touch with NAMILIA. Sex-positivity , anti-racism and pro-queer liberation. These looks are made to boost your sexappeal and confidence. The collection consists of wide shoulders, biker pants made from vegan leather, couture inspired silhouettes with military prints, lots of skin and glamorous trash. Everyone can be everything, as long as they are free.
All pictures via BERLIN FASHION WEEK